indonesia
Alluring textiles treasures that traversed the oceans, linking diverse civilizations and religions, embraced in the arm of the equator
Harmonic blend of spirituality and culture
The remarkable Silk Road and Spice Road brought along vital influence on the textiles and costumes in Indonesia. The secrets of Indonesian fabrics lies within the fascinating world of material culture. Journey back to the prehistoric era where terracotta pottery sherds proudly bear the imprint of intricate woven fabric, showcasing straight lines and playful waves. Excavated bark cloth beaters tell tales of textiles existing as far back as the 2nd BC. Delve deeper into the past, awe-inspiring artifacts such as kettledrums and ceremonial axes adorned with captivating geometric designs such as spirals, meanders, straight lines, rows of elongated triangles, the tree-of-life, winged sun symbols, masted ships, and diamonds. These timeless motifs still adorn cloth and woven textiles throughout Indonesia to this very day. But it doesn’t stop there! Explore the magical realm where nature’s supernatural powers come alive through stunning woven decorations.
Photo Credit: Textile Museum of Jakarta
indonesian motifs
History
captivating royal charms
Early influence of indonesian textile
Indonesia, the heart of maritime hubs in Asia, is a vibrant archipelago brimming with cultural richness and creativity. Spanning across 1,904,569.00 square kilometers, this strategically positioned country has welcomed the migration of people and cultural influences from East, South, and Southeast Asia, as well as from around the world. The remarkable diversity of Indonesia’s textile arts is a testament to this cultural fusion. From opulent silk and gold shoulder cloths to captivatingly patterned cotton mantles, from grand ceremonial wall hangings to humble working garments, these textiles serve as symbolic mediums with multiple layers of meaning and communication. They effortlessly blend into every aspect of social customs and religion, encompassing sophistication in their design and significance.
Indonesian fabrics depict the ingenuity of textile artisans through a variety of techniques, materials, and appearances. Hundreds of ethnic groups inhabit the Indonesian archipelago’s resource-rich tropical islands, producing a wide range of loom-woven textiles ranging from ordinary cottons, batik, and expensive ceremonial silks. They also made a variety of non-loom items, such as bark-cloth, plait work mats, and containers, as well as effigy figures made of various fibers and architectural features like thatching and house wall panels. It is assumed that weaving skills and themes inspiration entered the Indonesian archipelago with the spread of the Dong Son culture with characteristics of motifs such as spiral designs, swords or daggers, whirl motifs, and string designs seen in most Indonesian textiles.
Through careful research on textiles, we invite you to dive into a world where ancient traditions and contemporary artistry converge. Discover the harmonic blend of rich history, cultural diversity, and sustainable craftsmanship that permeates every thread of Indonesian textiles.
The fashioning of Kebaya with coastal batik scarf and tubular skirt exhibited in Museum Batik Indonesia. Photo credit: @Asri H. Nufus, Fitri U. Ningrum, and Puspita A. Permatasari 2023
Textiles and Indonesian Royal heritage
The appearance of silk fabrics in royal and aristocratic circles ignited a wave of trends that brought the importation of silk thread itself, thus enhancing Indonesian weaving techniques. The Sumatran peninsula, through the Straits of Malacca and the northern Javanese coast, was introduced to the art of silk weaving and supplementary thread decoration skills by Arab and Indian Islamic merchants. In each region, these supplementary thread works are referred to by their own unique names. For instance, in Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara, it is called Pahudu (Pahikungan), while other methods utilize a needle-like tool to create stunning embroidery patterns. Motifs like Sungkit in Kalimantan, Pa’uf in western Timor, and Buna in central Timor showcase captivating designs that appear identical on both sides of the cloth.
The art of batik, also known as wax resist dyeing, has a history dating back to 5000 BC. Batik tulis, or hand-written batik, was first mentioned in the Cĕkĕr inscription of the Kediri Kingdom in the 12th century, leading to the development of the batik tulis technique. The adorned kawung motif, mentioned in the Linggasutan inscription from the 10th century, became exclusively reserved for royalty in royal court batik. Various batik textile patterns can be seen in temple reliefs, such as the Jlamprang pattern in the Sewu temple and the Kawung pattern in the Ganesha statue of Blitar, East Java. Maritime Silk Route Textile celebrates these exquisite textiles and Indonesian Royal heritage.
techniques variety
INDONESIAN TEXTILE HERITAGE
Gold supplementary weft
Photo credit: Tenunan Songket
Gold Supplementary Weft
Known as Songket in Indonesia and Pha yok in Thailand, this traditional weaving technique is referred to as supplementary weft thread and often incorporates gold or silver metallic thread, typically in the form of a flat gold ribbon wrapped around cotton, linen, or silk fabric. This artistry can be observed in Brunei Darussalam, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand
ikat weaving
Photo credit: Puspita A. Permatasari with the permission of Queen Sirikit Museum of Thailand 2023
Ikat Weaving
The term ‘Ikat’ comes from Malay language and means to ‘bind’ or ‘tie’. This refers to decoration technique using warp threads, weft threads, or both (double ikat) prior to cloth weaving. In certain communities, the ikat weaving process is closely tied to ritual practices. Experienced weavers follow rules such as fasting, starting on an auspicious day. Ikat technique is practiced by artisans in Indonesia, Philippines, Thailand and Vietnam.
Embroidery
Photo credit: Puspita A. Permatasari 2023
Embroidery
Regarded as an intergenerational craftmanship, the distinctive style of embroideries portrays the exquisite textile heritage of each country in Southeast Asia. Embroidery skills were primarily practiced by women of Chinese-Malay descents, serving as a means for refining their womanhood and garnering social esteem during the late 18th to 19th centuries in Singapore. In Vietnam, this art is centered in the Hue area, while Thai-style embroidery (ผ้าปัก) characterizes the fine arts of royal court since the nineteenth century.
Batik & TIE DYE
Photo credit: A. H. Nufus, F. U. Ningrum, P. A. Permatasari with the permission of Textile Museum Jakarta, Indonesia
Batik and Tie dye
Tie dye and Batik or wax resist dyeing technique has gone through a long and rich history, dating back to ca. 5000 BC. The first hand writing technique or Batik Tulis was mentioned in Cĕkĕr inscription of Kediri Kingdom of Indonesia in 12th CE. More than 5’800 Batik motifs developed in 34 regions in Indonesia, encompassing tie dye arts in several region such as South Kalimantan and South Sumatra.
beadswork
Photo credit: Chloe, Alicia, Puspita A. Permatasari 2023
Beadswork
Beadwork is a craft technique that involves the use of beads to create decorative or functional objects, including jewelry, clothing embellishments, and bags. Archaeological evidence from East Timor site indicates the use of seed Coix lacryma-jobi dated to approximately pre-3000 BC.
journey of thousand miles
silk road maritime textile research documentary
COUNTRY
indonesia
charming emerald of the equator
stroll the city and more
Explore the vibrant heritage of textile heritage regions/countries along the magnificent Southeast Asian Silk Road. Immerse yourself in the captivating tales woven through Indonesian textile cities, and step into the splendid Museum Batik Indonesia and Textile Museum in Jakarta to delve deeper into this rich Silk Road legacy. Discover the artistry and legacy that has shaped Indonesian cultural identity, as you feel the atmosphere. Reveal the secrets of Indonesian textile traditions and let your Indonesian textile discovery transport you to a world of remarkable beauty and fascinating stories.
Photo credit: Jakarta HD @Walpaper Access
The handwritten Batik workshop setting with Mega Mendung motif in Museum Batik Indonesia. This pattern signifies leadership quality such as clarity in reflection and calm demeanour amidst chaos. Photo credit: @Asri H. Nufus, Fitri U. Ningrum, and Puspita A. Permatasari 2023.
DESTINATIONS
Textile Museum in Jakarta
Textile Museum in Jakarta, founded in 1976, is a testament to the rich cultural heritage of lndonesia. Traditional textiles in lndonesia hold significant importance, serving as components of dress, ceremonial objects, and a glimpse into local history. Recognizing the decline of textile heritage presrvation, the Himpunan Wastraprema foundation established an organization dedicated to preserving lndonesian textiles. Accommodated in a historic building in the Tanah Abang district, the museum showcases 500 high-quality textiles donated by the Society of Textile Lovers. Photo credit: @Asri H. Nufus, Fitri U. Ningrum, and Puspita A. Permatasari 2023.
Website: Museum Tekstil Jakarta | museumtekstiljakarta.org
Museum Batik Indonesia in Jakarta
Situated within Taman Mini Indonesia Indah (TMII), East Jakarta, the enchanting Indonesian Batik Museum has been showcasing the rich heritage of Indonesian Batik since its establishment in 2014. Inspired by UNESCO’s recognition of Indonesian Batik as a Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity on October 2, 2009, Indonesian government eagerly created this treasure trove to honor and preserve the profound knowledge and vibrant culture of batik, an inseparable part of the Indonesian identity. Explore a enriching journey of discovery and celebration at the Indonesian Batik Museum!
Jakarta Old Town Urban Heritage Complex
Discover the old facades of Jakarta, where history comes alive in the heart of the formidable administrative center of colonial era. Step into the 17th century and immerse yourself in the charm of colonial Dutch structures, now transformed into captivating museums, cozy cafes, and inspiring art galleries. On weekends and holidays, experience the vibrant energy as visitors flock to this area. Rent a vintage Sepeda Ontel bicycle and embark on a delightful tour of prestigious landmarks. Indulge in a culinary adventure, from mouthwatering street food to exquisite dining in a majestic colonial building that carries two centuries of stories. And be prepared to be enthralled by spontaneous modern art performances that spark creativity!
Website: Explore Jakarta Kota Tua: Today’s Old Batavia – Indonesia Travel