vietnam
Discover the alluring beauty of ancient traditions and shared Silk Road history in the reflection of Vietnamese textile craftsmanship.
The unique blend cultural expressions
Throughout Vietnamese history, silk has been a vital part of the country’s culture, society, and economy. In feudal times, silk was highly prized and produced by skilled farmers and artisans, but exclusively enjoyed by the royal family and the elite. A well-known folk saying reflects this distinction: Nuôi lợn ăn cơm nằm, nuôi tằm ăn cơm đứng’, which translates to ‘Raising pigs allows you to eat while lying down, but raising silkworms requires you to stand while eating.’ Vietnamese textile heritage serves as the living testament of cultural diversity connected to the Silk Road history.
Photo Credit: @Chloe, Alicia, and Puspita A. Permatasari 2023
vietnamese motifs
History
the woven threads
The Tà Ôi weaving process. Photo Credit: @Chloe, Alicia, and Puspita A. Permatasari 2023
Early history of Vietnamese textile
In Vietnamese legends, the founding ancestor of textile production was princess Mỵ Nương Thiều Hoa, the daughter of the 6th Hùng King of the Văn Lang state, a precursor to the contemporary Vietnamese nation (2524 – 258 B.C.) Relics found at Cổ Đô Village, Ba Vì Province, attributed her as the first person to discover the ability of the silkworm to produce raw silk, which she then weaved into fabric and named it ‘lụa’ (silk). The princess then taught this practice to villagers and farmers, which quickly caught on and became a valuable, intrinsic part of the agricultural society of ancient Vietnam.
Throughout Vietnamese history, silk has always played an important part of the cultural, social, and economic livelihood of the people. During feudal time, silk was considered a valuable, expensive item produced by the farmers and artisans but reserved for the royal family, the elite and ruling classes. A popular folk saying goes, ‘Nuôi lợn ăn cơm nằm, nuôi tằm ăn cơm đứng’, which translates to ‘Raising pigs you can lie down and eat, raising silkworms you have to stand up eating’, referring to the different nature of two activities: whereas cattle-rearing in general and raising pigs in particular are often less physically taxing and allows the farmers to have plenty of time for rest and relaxation, raising silkworm, hence silk production, is a labour-intensive process that requires concentration, investment, and sacrifice from the farmers and cultivators.
Vietnamese silk in Modern era
From the 17th til early-18th century, Vietnamese silk was an important item for the trading relations between the Dutch East India Company (VOC) and the Vietnamese kingdom of Đàng Ngoài. With the arrival of the French in 1858 and the establishment of the Indochinese Union (1887-1954), textile production in general and silk production in particular became a modernised industry with the introduction of modern machinery and the promotion of native, indigenous Vietnamese artisans at colonial expositions in Hanoi and in Paris. During this era, the lụa Hà Đông (Hà Đông silk) produced at Vạn Phúc Silk Village in Hà Đông became a popular fabric to tailor the áo dài, a garment for the modern Vietnamese women newly-created by graduates of the colonial École des Beaux-Arts d’Indochin (Indochinese School of Fine Arts). Hà Đông silk has had a long-lasting endurance through the trials and tribulations of history, no less thanks to two immensely popular cultural productions in Vietnam, namely the song Áo lụa Hà Đông (Hà Đông silk tunic), written by musician Ngô Thuỵ Miên in 1971 as an adaptation of the poem of the same name by the poet Nguyên Sa, and the 2006 film Áo lụa Hà Đông (The White Silk Dress, dir. Lưu Huỳnh), a moving account of the plight of Vietnamese Women during the first Indochinese War.
A woman wearing an áo dài. Photo credit: phuckieu via Wikipedia. CC BY 2.0
techniques variety
vietnamese TEXTILE HERITAGE
Gold supplementary weft
Photo credit: Tenunan Songket
Gold Supplementary Weft
Known as Songket in Indonesia and Pha yok in Thailand, this traditional weaving technique is referred to as supplementary weft thread and often incorporates gold or silver metallic thread, typically in the form of a flat gold ribbon wrapped around cotton, linen, or silk fabric. This artistry can be observed in Brunei Darussalam, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, and Vietnam. In Vietnam, this art is practiciced by the Pà Thẻn minority ethnic group of Vietnam, who live in Hà Giang and Tuyên Quang provinces, in Vietnam’s Northeast region.
ikat weaving
Photo credit: Puspita A. Permatasari with the permission of Queen Sirikit Museum of Thailand 2023
Ikat Weaving
The term ‘Ikat’ comes from Malay language and means to ‘bind’ or ‘tie’. This refers to decoration technique using warp threads, weft threads, or both (double ikat) prior to cloth weaving. In certain communities, the ikat weaving process is closely tied to ritual practices. Experienced weavers follow rules such as fasting, starting on an auspicious day. Ikat technique is practiced by artisans in Indonesia, Philippines, Thailand and Vietnam. Tà Ôi and Hmong ethnic groups of Vietnam are known for their unique and colourful handwoven textiles.
Embroidery
Photo credit: Puspita A. Permatasari 2023
Embroidery
Needlework holds a significant place as an intangible cultural heritage in Southeast Asia. The distinctive style of embroideries portrays the exquisite textile heritage of Brunei Darussalam, Indonesia, Philippines, Singapore, and Vietnam. In Vietnam, this technique is considered one of Vietnam’s most important crafts to embellish ceremonial clothes. Since the 17th century this craftmanship was developed and flourished in the Hue area.
beadswork
Photo credit: Chloe, Alicia, Puspita A. Permatasari 2023
Beadswork
Beadwork is a craft technique that involves the use of beads to create decorative or functional objects, including jewelry, clothing embellishments, and bags. Archaeological evidence from East Timor site indicates the use of seed Coix lacryma-jobi dated to approximately pre-3000 BC. In Vietnam, this craftsmanship decorates the beautiful Tà Ôi handwoven textile at A Lưới District in Vietnam.
Stitch applique
Photo credit: Puspita A. Permatasari 2023
Stitch Applique
Clothing accessories of Hmong people living in Vietnam and bordering area of Laos and Thailand feature textile reverse appliqué, a hand-stitched patchwork showcasing distinctive patterns and shapes. Combined with embroidery needlework, this technique convey an array of meanings and narratives. Hmong needlework is a reflection of their spiritual beliefs in the unseen world of spirits and ancestors (yeeb ceeb) and serves spiritual purposes for protection against misfortune, malevolent spirits, and bad luck.
journey of thousand miles
silk road maritime textile research documentary
COUNTRY
vietnam
explore the enchanting pearl of
mekong river
stroll the city and more
Explore the vibrant heritage of textiles along the countries/regions connected to the Silk Road. Immerse yourself in the captivating tales woven through Vietnamese textile cities, and step into the Vietnam National Fine Arts Museum and Cho Hom Market, a wonderful place for fashion-food lovers in Hanoi. Discover the artistry and legacy that has shaped Vietnam cultural identity, as you delve deeper into this rich tapestry of history. Reveal the secrets of Vietnamese textile traditions and let this discovery transport you to a world of remarkable beauty and fascinating stories.
Landmark photo credit: Văn Miếu, literally translated as Temple of Literature by Chuoibk from Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Tứ bình (Four female musicians), Hang Trong painting dated back to the 17th century via Wikipedia Public Domain
Textile heritage DESTINATIONS
Stunning Áo dài at Cho Hom Market, Hanoi
While the city now boasts modern markets and malls, Cho Hom Market still holds its charm as one of the top shopping destinations in Hanoi. This two-story market offers neatly arranged stalls on each floor, making it easy for tourists to explore. On the first floor, you’ll find a variety of ao dai, the traditional dress of Vietnamese women, with affordable prices and beautiful designs and colors. A wide selection of fabrics, clothes, and accessories in various designs, colors, materials, and quality will pamper your eyes. Experience excellent variety and choose a stunning ao dai for yourself and your loved ones at Hom Market.
Vietnam National Fine Arts Museum
Vietnam National Fine Arts Museum is a revered institution that houses a magnificent collection of Vietnam’s finest artistic creations. This prestigious museum serves as a sanctuary for great masterpieces, including an esteemed selection of 9 National Treasures. With deep appreciation, the museum honors and preserves these invaluable works, offering visitors a captivating journey through Vietnam’s rich artistic heritage. Explore the Vietnamese most coveted textile heritage and enjoy the stories through the threads of Mekong civilizations. Photo credit: Public Domain
The Tà Ôi ethnic in A Lưới and the Hmong ethnic in Cát Cát textile village
Immerse yourself in a variety of textile making experiences in Vietnam. A Lưới District inhabited by Tà Ôi ethnic is a must-visit destination. This village is located just 70km from Huế, the capital of Thừa Thiên-Huế Province in the central region. Explore the former Imperial City of Huế, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as well as the tombs of Nguyễn emperors, the sông Hương (Perfume River), and other historically significant sites. It is recommended to visit A Lưới District during the dry season from May to August and avoiding the monsoon season between September and December.
Another famous textile village worth exploring is Cát Cát Village in Sa Pa, Lào Cai Province in the north of Vietnam. This village, inhabited by the Hmong people, is located near the Chinese-Vietnamese border and showcases the rich cultural exchanges between Vietnam and China throughout history. Take your notes and start this exciting journey to the heart of Vietnam.