brunei darussalam
The captivating charm of Silk Road history, immersed through the exquisite artistry of Brunei Darussalam’s textile heritage.
The Golden History of Royal Society
The foundation of Brunei’s national ideology is based on Brunei Darussalam’s national philosophy, ‘Melayu Islam Beraja’ (Malay Islamic Monarchy), which is constituted based on Islamic principles, Malay culture, and Monarchical Values. These pillars also shape the social and cultural aspects of Brunei society. The traditional aspect of governance reflects Brunei’s historical roots and respect for its rich cultural heritage, including the monarchy’s role in governing textile wearing rules in traditional and ceremonial affairs.
Extending beyond ethnicity, Malay culture permeates Brunei’s identity in various dimensions. Virtues such as solidarity, loyalty, and respect are highly esteemed qualities among Bruneians. Islam holds a central role in Brunei’s identity, as it is declared as the official religion of the constitution. It is not merely a set of religious beliefs but a comprehensive way of life, providing guiding principles for both the people and the government of Brunei Darussalam.
Photo Credit: Tenunan Songket
brunei darussalam motifs
History
Royal golden threads
The queens attire of Brunei Darussalam in the collection of Royal Regalia Museum of Brunei Darussalam. Photo credit: @Fitri U. Ningrum and Puspita A. Permatasari 2023
Early influence of Brunei textile
Brunei Darussalam has a significant position along the silk trade route, connecting diverse Asian regions. For centuries, Brunei has been involved in the silk trade, strategically located on the northern coast of Borneo island for maritime commerce. Bandar Seri Begawan Port, the capital of Brunei, has played a vital role as a maritime hub along the silk trade route, linking East Asia, South Asia, and Southeast Asia. The port is well-equipped with efficient loading and unloading facilities, crucial for handling the delicate nature of silk products.
During the 16th CE, Brunei served as a trading hub, gaining access to imported textiles and cottons from Arabia, India, and China in exchange for local goods. Weaving likely started when Chinese traders visited Brunei, bringing commodities like gold, silver, and silk, exchanged for local items such as camphor and spices. Kampong Ayer in Bandar Seri Begawan emerged as a significant trading center, facilitating weavers’ access to necessary raw materials. Archaeological excavations conducted in 1952-1953 in Kota Batu revealed weaving implements, including loom parts and containers for dyeing clothes. Historical evidence records Brunei’s ruler sent tributes, including ‘golden mats,’ to the Chinese Liang Dynasty (502-557 CE), referring to intricately woven cloths used for seating royalty and at weddings.
BRunei textile in modern society
The Brunei identity is shaped by religion, ethnicity, social dynamics, politics, education, and character. Traditional textiles in Brunei are preserved through Islamic influences, with significant roles in important life events like weddings, new mother celebrations, circumcision, and coming of age ceremonies. Islamic traditions closely align with the wearing rules of traditional clothes, where patterns and motifs contradicting Islamic values are modified or avoided. Floral patterns, plants, fruits, and nature are prominent motifs, while cotton is preferred for traditional textiles.
Brunei recognizes seven ethnic groups, namely Brunei, Belait, Bisaya, Dusun, Kedayan, Murut and Tutong, which are classified into one Malay category. These groups are also known as puak jati as the genuine ethnic groups of Brunei Darussalam, holding significant social and political status. Other ethnic groups in this category have a peripheral political position but individuals from these backgrounds are recognized and appointed as representatives. Among these ethnic groups, puak Brunei primarily adopts traditional textiles, which contribute to the diversity in clothing styles and textile usage among Brunei’s ethnicities.
techniques variety
brunei darussalam TEXTILE HERITAGE
Gold supplementary weft
Photo credit: Tenunan Songket
Gold Supplementary Weft
Known as Songket in Indonesia and Pha yok in Thailand, this traditional weaving technique is referred to as supplementary weft thread and often incorporates gold or silver metallic thread, typically in the form of a flat gold ribbon wrapped around cotton, linen, or silk fabric. This artistry can be observed in Brunei Darussalam, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand
Embroidery
Photo credit: Puspita A. Permatasari 2023
Embroidery
Needlework holds a significant place as an intangible cultural heritage in Southeast Asia. The distinctive style of embroideries portrays the exquisite textile heritage of Brunei Darussalam, Indonesia, Philippines, and Singapore. Embroidery skills were primarily practiced by women, serving as a means for refining their womanhood and garnering social esteem during the late 18th to 19th centuries in Singapore.
Batik
Photo credit: Fitri U Ningrum 2023 on her visit to from SHB foundation Brunei Darussalam
Batik
Batik or wax resist dyeing technique has gone through a long and rich history, dating back to ca. 5000 BC. The first hand writing technique or Batik Tulis was mentioned in Cĕkĕr inscription of Kediri Kingdom of Indonesia in 12th CE. Other than Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore, this technique is practiced by some communities in Brunei Darussalam. Photo credit: Fitri U Ningrum 2023 on her visit to from SHB foundation Brunei Darussalam
journey of thousand miles
silk road maritime textile research documentary
COUNTRY
brunei
darussalam
enchanting colours in the abode of peace
stroll the city and more
Explore the vibrant heritage of textile heritage regions/countries along the magnificent Southeast Asian Silk Road. Immerse yourself in the captivating tales woven through Brunei textile cities, and visit the splendid Royal Regalia Museum in Bandar Seri Begawan to delve deeper into the solemn royal heritage. Discover the artistry and legacy that has shaped Brunei cultural identity, as you wander the streets. Reveal the secrets of Brunei textile traditions and let this discovery transport you to a world of remarkable beauty and fascinating stories.
Photo Credit: sam garza from Los Angeles, USA, via Wikimedia Commons CC BY 2.0
DESTINATIONS
Royal Regalia Museum in Bandar Seri Begawan
Explore Brunei’s rich cultural heritage at the Royal Regalia Museum. Located in Bandar Seri Begawan, this remarkable museum showcases the regalia of the Sultan and the royal family, celebrating Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah’s reign. Marvel at the exhibits of traditional attire, ceremonial weaponry, jeweled crowns, and ceremonial costumes. Explore the Constitutional Gallery featuring significant documents and treaties. Embark on a captivating journey through time at the Royal Regalia Museum, a testament to Brunei’s majestic heritage.
Photo credit: @Fitri U. Ningrum and Puspita A. Permatasari 2023
Website: Royal Regalia Museum
Brunei History Centre in Bandar Seri Begawan.
Embark on thrilling journey to discover fascinating and awe-inspiring Brunei History Centre in Bandar Seri Begawan. Immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of Brunei’s captivating past at this extraordinary destination. The Brunei History Centre (PSB) is a government institution that conducts research, documentation, publication, and dissemination on the history of Brunei. The center’s establishment was authorized by Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah on January 26, 1982, to conduct research and share the history of Brunei for the country’s people. With its historical significance and cultural treasures, the Brunei History Centre offers an unparalleled experience for history enthusiasts and curious minds alike. Delve into the depths of Brunei’s heritage and uncover the untold stories that have shaped this remarkable nation. Photo credit: Khamis 2014
Art and Handicraft Centre of Brunei Darussalam
Located along the river, the Brunei Arts and Crafts Center stands as a testament to the preservation of traditional local handicrafts. With a dedicated focus on reviving nearly vanished arts and crafts, particularly those of artisan weavers, this exceptional center showcases a remarkable array of silver and brassware, beautifully crafted woven baskets, intricate wood carvings, and ancient daggers. Explore the captivating world of Brunei’s exquisite artistic traditions that thrives for generations to come.
Photo credit: @Fitri U. Ningrum and Puspita A. Permatasari 2023