Thailand

Splendid royal cultures in the vivid colour of Thai textiles, shaping the timeless legacy of Thai civilizations.

Pure Elegance & Spiritual Harmony

The thriving Thai textile traditions reflect vibrant stylistic influences and historical narratives from various kingdoms, including Dvaravati, Khmer, Sukothai, and Ayutthaya. The Indian and Chinese influences curated with the splendor Thai royal pattern can be seen in the intricate patterns, vibrant colours, making exquisite craftsmanship of Thai textiles to be evident. Beautiful variance of Thai textile motifs depict a captivating journey through time, celebrating the rich heritage and lasting impact of Thai historical narratives on textiles.

Photo Credit:  own collection Puspita A. Permatasari 2023

History

of timeless beauty

The diorama paintings depicting weaving activities of Thai ancient society, collection of the Jim Thompson House Museum. Photo credit: @courtesy of James H W Thompson Foundation.

Early influence of Thai textile

The history of Thai textiles began during the Indianization era and continued with the assimilation of Chinese culture. Central Thailand was home to the ancient Mon kingdom of Dvaravati, which existed from the 7th to the 11th century. The fourth and fifth centuries are marked as the ‘Proto-Dvaravati’ period, where the Mon people started to settle in the region and develop their own unique textile weaving traditions. These early textiles were made using techniques such as weaving, dyeing, and embroidery, and were often adorned with intricate patterns and motifs inspired from Buddhist Theravada iconography.

The textile tradition continues to evolved especially during Khmer dynasty. Southeast Asia’s Khmer Empire was a Hindu-Buddhist state with its capital in what is now northern Cambodia that was preceded by Hindu Zhenla (真蠟). The empire thrived from 802 until 1431, Khmer prince Jayavarman II as the first emperor entitled chakravartin (lit. ’universal ruler’, a title equivalent to ’emperor’). This era is known by historians as the Angkor period , where the old Khmer Empire reached its peak in terms of political power, cultural achieve-ments, and architectural marvels. The Angkor period saw the construction of magnificent temples such as Angkor Wat and Bayon, showcasing the empire’s devotion to Hindu and Buddhist beliefs. The fall of Angkor to the Siamese Ayutthaya Kingdom in 1431 marked the end of the Khmer Empire in Cambodia.

 

Thai textile in classic era

Costumes in the classic era of Thailand
The beautiful fusion of Indian and Khmer style of Thai costumes continued to be popular in the Ayutthaya period 1351–1767,  with intricate patterns and vibrant colours being incorporated into the designs. The clothing was often accessorized with elaborate jewellery, such as gold bracelets and necklaces adorned with precious gemstones. As the longest reigning kingdom in Thailand, unique ways of clothing styling emerged as a result of different cultural and social interaction established through diplomatic and trading relations with different countries. Both men and women conserved using loincloths called Pha Chung Hang or pants as part of their daily attire. However, the wearing rules differed from men and women, pha chung hang for men was usually worn to cover the waist to thighs, while women wore it to wrap around the waist to below the knees and ankles. Sabai is used as a breast covering for rich women to indicate social statues, while the commoners remained uncovered. Jewelleries, gold bracelets, and necklaces were often indicate royal family status. High rank noblemen wore a loose open white cotton shirt. However, it was a social rule for men to remove the shirt and appeared bare chest to indicate the lower rank gesture in the presence of the highest authority during this era. For centuries Thai women fashioned clothing in many different ways of body exposure. Up until late of 19th CE, following a modern adoption of Thai clothing, feet and breast covering was compulsory for women and punishable by law for those who commit a breach. In Ayutthaya period, the court men wore the lomphok (Thai: ลอมพอก), which is a white layered head cover made of bamboo for the nobles. The use lomphok headgear was inspired from the turbans of Safavid-dynasty in Persia.

Thai textile in Modern era

During Rattanakosin era (1767–1932) of early Chakri dynasty , Siam entered a new historical period, where the Thai royal power was continuously solidifying against the tide of western ceaseless invasion. Rebranding fashion and the clothing style for royals were seen as a necessity, which complement tactical defence and foreign diplomacy of the authorities. In 1860s, the traditional approach of Thai royal costumes developed to embrace Victorian corporeal and western-sartorial to represent royal family personas. It is during this era, royal tailoring department was developed and the governmental and public officers were ought to wear a pre-defined court attire and ceremonial uniforms. The use of unisex items such as pha nung (Thai: ผ้านุ่ง), a traditional tubular long skirt, appealed to the favour of Westerners’ taste. This era is characterised by the revolutionary approach of fashion as a political statement in Thai clothing history. From traditional conservation outlook to modern Victorian sartorial fashion, the King Rama I and the queen embrace western clothing characters, developing a more distinct gender identity in the appearance of male and female. This new fashion came into the manifestation amidst national threats of western invasion from the neighbouring areas. Victorian inspired Thai royal costumes and the projection of European-inspired military jacket on the King Mongkut’s appearance intensified the image of Thai royal power and dignity. This renewed national fashion statement played crucial role as the entry façade of Thai nation in order to make a stronger and a modern impression to address the concerns of visiting westerners. 

 

The fusion style of Dvaravati and of Khmer culture shaped into a beautiful set of royal attire, consisting of Sabai breast cover and Sampot Chong Kraben tubular skirt, ornamented with precious metals and stones. Photo credit: @Puspita A. Permatasari 2023 with the permission of Queen Sirikit Museum of Thailand

techniques variety

thai TEXTILE HERITAGE

Gold supplementary weft

Photo credit: Tenunan Songket

Gold Supplementary Weft

Known as Songket in Indonesia and Pha yok in Thailand, this traditional weaving technique is referred to as supplementary weft thread and often incorporates gold or silver metallic thread, typically in the form of a flat gold ribbon wrapped around cotton, linen, or silk fabric. This artistry can be observed in Brunei Darussalam, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand

ikat weaving

Photo credit: Puspita A. Permatasari with the permission of Queen Sirikit Museum of Thailand 2023

Ikat Weaving

The term ‘Ikat’ comes from Malay language and means to ‘bind’ or ‘tie’. This refers to decoration technique using warp threads, weft threads, or both (double ikat) prior to cloth weaving. In certain communities, the ikat weaving process is closely tied to ritual practices. Experienced weavers follow rules such as fasting, starting on an auspicious day. Ikat technique is practiced by artisans in Indonesia, Philippines, Thailand and Vietnam.

Embroidery

Photo credit: Puspita A. Permatasari 2023

Embroidery

Regarded as an intergenerational craftmanship, the distinctive style of embroideries portrays the exquisite textile heritage of each country in Southeast Asia. Embroidery skills were primarily practiced by women of Chinese-Malay descents, serving as a means for refining their womanhood and garnering social esteem during the late 18th to 19th centuries in Singapore. In Vietnam, this art is centered in the Hue area, while Thai-style embroidery (ผ้าปัก) characterizes the fine arts of royal court since the nineteenth century. 

Batik & TIE DYE

Photo credit: P. A. Permatasari 2023 with the permission of Queen Sirikit Museum of Thailand

Batik and Tie dye

Tie dye and Batik or wax resist dyeing technique has gone through a long and rich history, dating back to ca. 5000 BC. Tie dye technique became popular as a textile production technique in Brunei Darussalam, Malaysia, Thailand and Singapore, highly characterized by local arts. In Thailand, tie dye is a special craftmanship developed in Donkoi village, Sakon Nakhon, Thailand.

Stitch applique

Photo credit: Puspita A. Permatasari 2023

Stitch Applique

Clothing accessories of Hmong people living in Vietnam and bordering area of Laos and Thailand feature textile reverse appliqué, a hand-stitched patchwork showcasing distinctive patterns and shapes. Combined with embroidery needlework, this technique convey an array of meanings and narratives. Hmong needlework is a reflection of their spiritual beliefs in the unseen world of spirits and ancestors (yeeb ceeb) and serves spiritual purposes for protection against misfortune, malevolent spirits, and bad luck.

 

journey of thousand miles

silk road maritime textile research documentary

This ancient trade route continues to weave its legacy, connecting people across time and space to this very day…

– Jakub Grochowina

Thailand textile heritage represents the majestic royal culture and colourful charm of ethnicities

– Dr. P. A. Permatasari-Grochowina

COUNTRY

Thailand

discover the royal country

stroll the city and more

Explore the vibrant heritage of textile heritage regions/countries along the magnificent Southeast Asian Silk Road. Immerse yourself in the captivating tales woven through Thai textile cities, and visit the splendid Queen Sirikit Museum in Bangkok to delve deeper into the solemn royal heritage. Discover the artistry and legacy that has shaped Thai cultural identity, as you wander the streets. Reveal the secrets of Thai textile traditions and let this discovery transport you to a world of remarkable beauty and fascinating stories.

Andong Hahoe Folk Village Thai dancer by Robert CC BY 3.0 Wikipedia

Textile heritage DESTINATIONS

Queen Sirikit Museum in Bangkok, Thailand

Visit the enchanting world of the Queen Sirikit Textile Museum of Thailand, where royal artistry and exquisite textile collections come alive. Explore the rich heritage and cultural significance of these masterpieces, showcasing the remarkable craftsmanship and creativity of Thai textiles inspired from ancient Thailand to the recent Ranattakosin era. Delve into the captivating stories woven into every fabric, tracing the intricate patterns and vibrant colors that reflect the country’s history and traditions. Here, the most coveted Thai textiles are exhibiting showcasing a testament to the dedication of textile artisans and their timeless masterpieces.

Website: Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles. qsmtthailand.org

Jim Thompson House in Bangkok, Thailand

Captivating world of the Jim Thompson House Textile Museum leads you to the rich history and exquisite craftsmanship showcased within these walls. Discover a treasure trove of textiles, each telling its own story and reflecting the vibrant heritage of the Silk Route. This museum presents the ingenuity and artistry of Jim Thompson, a visionary who brought Thai silk to the global stage. Delve into the wonders of traditional weaving techniques, intricate patterns, and the mesmerizing colors that have enchanted generations.

Website: Jim Thompson House jimthompsonhouse.org

Sathorn Gold Textile Museum in Ban Hat Siao,  Si Satchanalai Sukhothai, Thailand

Founded by Sathorn Soratprasopsanti, a true connoisseur and handwoven textiles collector, the museum gracefully unveils an extensive treasury of gold-thread woven textiles. Deeply aware of textile heritage conservation, Mr. Sathorn has dedicated countless decades to safeguarding these extraordinary creations. As his invaluable collection of antique garments continues to flourish, the illustrious Gold Textile Museum presented an unyielding testament to the sheer beauty and profound cultural significance of centurial Thai textile legacies.

Website: Sathorn Gold Textile Museum in Ban Hat Siao. sathorngoldtextilemuseum.com